General restoration tips for LI, SX, TV, DL & GP Models
When restoring a Lambretta, it's easy to concentrate on the major components. The frame, paintwork, engine, wheels and chrome are usually the first things that come to mind.
However, it's often the small details that make the biggest difference to a correctly restored scooter.
The type of bolt, the finish of the hardware, the number of fixings used and even the colour of a rubber buffer can all change depending on the model and production period.
This guide looks at some of the original-style fixings, hardware, rubber trim, gaskets, buffers and wiring looms used across Lambretta LI, SX, TV, DL and GP models.
It is particularly aimed at anyone trying to restore a Lambretta as correctly as possible, rather than simply fitting modern replacement hardware that happens to fit.
A Basic Restoration Guide
Please note: This is intended as a basic guide for Lambretta owners and restorers and is not intended to be a fully detailed factory restoration manual.
Lambretta production changed many times over the years, and there can be differences between models, production periods, markets and individual scooters.
We've included some of the more common fixings, rubber components, colours and wiring details that are often questioned during a restoration.
There are many more small differences and production changes that could be covered, but the aim of this guide is to give owners a useful starting point when trying to understand what should generally be fitted to their Lambretta.
If you're carrying out a concours-level or completely factory-correct restoration, we recommend checking the exact model, production year and specification of the scooter before purchasing parts.
This guide is a starting point, not an exhaustive factory specification.
Zinc-Plated Hardware – Not Stainless Steel
One of the most common changes made during Lambretta restorations is the use of stainless-steel fixings.
Stainless steel is readily available, looks clean and offers excellent resistance to corrosion. However, if you're trying to reproduce the original appearance of a Lambretta, stainless steel isn't the correct factory finish for the hardware covered in this guide.
The original-style hardware was zinc plated.
This applies across the Lambretta models covered here, including LI, TV, SX, DL and GP.
So while stainless-steel hardware may be a perfectly practical choice for a scooter that is going to be ridden regularly, it should be considered a modern replacement rather than the original specification.
For a correct restoration, zinc plating is the finish to look for.
Toolbox Trunnions
The toolbox fixing arrangement changed during Lambretta production.
On earlier Lambrettas, the toolbox was secured using metal trunnions and ties, with the hardware finished in zinc plating.
Later GP models moved away from this arrangement and used plastic halfmoon ties which connect to the toolbox.
Earlier models: Zinc-plated metal toolbox trunnions and ties.
Later GP models: Plastic halfmoon ties.
Petrol Tank Strap Trunnions & Straps
The petrol tank strap trunnions were zinc plated.
The colour of the petrol tank straps themselves changed during Lambretta production.
Series 1 & Series 2
Series 1 and Series 2 models used black petrol tank straps.
Early Series 3
Early Series 3 models also continued with black petrol tank straps.
Later Series 3 & GP
Part way through Series 3 production, the strap colour changed from black to white.
The white straps continued through the later production and into the DL/GP models.
Series 1: Black
Series 2: Black
Early Series 3: Black
Later Series 3: White
DL/GP: White
The trunnions and associated hardware remained zinc plated.
Petrol Tank Drip Tray & Ring
In 1966, a petrol tank drip tray and ring were added to the tank.
This is another example of why production date matters when restoring a Lambretta.
A component being available today doesn't necessarily mean it was fitted to every scooter from the factory.
Airbox Fixings
The Lambretta airbox uses some particularly distinctive hardware.
For an original-style restoration, the airbox uses:
- 2 × zinc-plated Allen bolts
- Zinc-plated washers
- 1 × special square-headed zinc-plated bolt at the bottom of the airbox
The two Allen bolts pass through the air scoop and secure the upper part of the airbox.
The special square-headed bolt is used at the bottom.
Rear Mudguard Fixings
The rear mudguard fixing arrangement changed between the earlier and later Lambrettas.
Series 1 & Series 2
Series 1 and Series 2 models used:
- 4 × zinc-plated cheese-head bolts
- Zinc-plated nuts
- Zinc-plated washers
Series 3 & GP
Series 3 and GP models changed to:
- 3 × zinc-plated bolts
- Zinc-plated nuts
- Zinc-plated washers
Series 1 & 2: 4 × cheese-head bolts
Series 3 & GP: 3 × bolts
Rear Tail Lamp Fixings
Series 1 & Series 2
On Series 1 and Series 2 models, the tail lamp mounting bolts were cast into the lamp unit itself.
Series 3 & GP
Series 3 and GP models used removable square-headed zinc-plated bolts, together with zinc-plated nuts and washers.
Removable Engine-Side Frame Leg Fixings
The bolt size changed when Lambretta production moved from Series 2 to Series 3.
Series 1 & Series 2
- 2 × M8 zinc-plated bolts
- Nuts
- Washers
Series 3 & GP
- 2 × M7 zinc-plated bolts
- Nuts
- Washers
Series 1 & 2 = M8
Series 3 & GP = M7
Series 3 & GP Side Panel Hook Bracket Fixings
The side panel hook brackets use:
- 4 × M5 flat-head countersunk screws
- Nuts
- Washers
There are two different screw lengths.
Two screws are shorter than the other two.
4 × M5 countersunk screws — 2 short and 2 long — with nuts and washers.
Bridge Fixings
The bridge uses:
- 2 × zinc-plated raised countersunk screws
- Zinc-plated nuts
- Zinc-plated washers
The raised countersunk head is an important part of the original appearance.
Series 1 & 2 Mudguard Fixings
Lower Mudguard
- 2 × M5 zinc-plated bolts
- Fender washers
These screw into the legshield brackets.
Upper Mudguard / Horncast
- 4 × short M5 zinc-plated bolts
- Fender washers
Series 3 & GP Mudguard Fixings
The Series 3 and GP use a combination of M4 and M5 screws.
Lower Mudguard
- 2 × M4 raised countersunk screws — pass through the floor channel end cap and screw into the outer legshield screw.
- 2 × M5 raised countersunk screws — sit within the raised cup washers.
- 2 × M5 flat countersunk screws — sit under the aluminium floor channel.
Upper Mudguard / Horncast
- 2 × short M5 zinc-plated bolts
- Fender washers
Series 1 & 2 Horncast Fixings
Horn Grille
- 1 × M4 raised countersunk screw
Front Horncast
Under the horncast badge:
- 2 × M6 Allen bolts
Rear Horncast
- 4 × M5 raised countersunk screws
- M5 cup washers
The screws sit within the cup washers.
Series 3 & GP Horncast Fixings
The horncast arrangement changed again with Series 3.
Upper Horncast
- 2 × specially designed M5 cheese-head style screws
These are a distinctive fixing and an exact off-the-shelf equivalent can be difficult to find.
Lower Horncast
- 2 × M5 raised countersunk screws
- M5 cup washers
Horn Grille
- 2 × M5 flat countersunk screws
Behind the Horncast Badge – Series 3 Only
Series 3, but not GP, uses:
- 2 × M6 Allen bolts
The SX/TV special-style horncast requires slightly longer M6 Allen bolts compared with the standard LI horncast.
Headlamp Rim Fixings
The headlamp rim fixing arrangement changed considerably throughout production.
Series 1
- 4 × M4 raised countersunk screws
- 4 × cup washers
Series 2
- 3 × M4 raised countersunk screws
- 3 × cup washers
Series 3 LI
- 3 × M4 raised countersunk screws
- Washers
Series 3 TV & SX
- 4 × M3 Phillips-head raised countersunk screws
GP
- 2 × M3 Phillips-head raised countersunk screws
Lambretta Floor Fixings
The floor fixings use a mixture of screws, nuts, washers and speed clips.
There is a simple rule that helps determine which fixing should be used.
The Basic Rule
If the screw passes through the frame and attaches the floor or legshield to one of the frame struts, it is secured with a nut.
If the screw doesn't connect to the frame, it uses a speed clip.
Screw through the frame strut = nut
Screw not through the frame = speed clip
The Two Types of Speed Clip
There are two types of speed clip used around the floor area.
For simplicity, we refer to them as the square-hole and round-hole types.
Square-hole speed clips have a square opening with jagged teeth. These connect the floor to the legshield.
Round-hole speed clips have a round opening and are used for the other floor screws where a speed clip is required.
Rear Shock Absorber Fixings
The rear shock absorber mounting points used zinc-plated half nuts and washers at the top and bottom.
Importantly, the original arrangement did not use nyloc nuts.
Rear shock fixings: zinc-plated half nuts and washers — not nyloc nuts.
Seat Fixings
The Lambretta seat uses two different types of spacer at the front and rear.
Front Seat Hinge
The front seat fixings use:
- 4 × M8 bolts
- 4 × M8 nuts
- 4 × M8 washers
- 4 × thick spacer washers
The thick spacer washers sit between the seat hinge and the frame.
Rear Seat Locking Plate
The rear locking plate uses:
- 4 × M8 bolts
- 4 × M8 nuts
- 4 × M8 washers
- 4 × thick nylon spacer washers
The nylon spacer washers sit between the locking plate and the frame, spacing the locking plate away from the frame.
This is a surprisingly common mistake during assembly. People often fit the nylon washers to the seat hinge rather than the locking plate.
The correct arrangement is:
Frame → nylon spacer washer → locking plate → washer → nut
Rubber Trim, Gaskets & Buffers
We get a lot of customers asking about what the correct rubber trim, rubber buffers, gaskets and other rubber components should be on their Lambretta.
This is an area that causes a lot of confusion because replacement rubber is available in different colours, profiles and qualities.
The important thing to remember is that not every rubber component followed the colour of the main body trim.
We'll therefore look at the individual components rather than simply saying that a particular model was "grey" or "black".
Black Rubber Components
Centre Stand Feet
The centre stand feet were black rubber as standard.
Kickstart Rubber
The kickstart rubber was also black.
Series 1 & 2 Internal Front Mudguard Buffers
Series 1 and Series 2 models used:
- 2 × small black internal mudguard rubber buffers
Floor Vibration Rubbers
Series 1 and Series 2 models used thicker floor vibration rubbers than the later models.
Flywheel Cover Vibration Grommets
If fitted, the flywheel cover vibration grommets were black rubber.
A common mistake when fitting these is to push the grommets into the flywheel cover from the outside inwards.
The correct way is to fit or push the grommets from the inside of the cowl outwards.
Flywheel cover vibration grommets: Black
Correct fitting: Push them from the inside of the cowl outwards.
Series 3 & GP Toolbox Buffers
The Series 3 and GP toolbox uses rubber buffers to prevent the toolbox door rattling and to help position the door correctly.
Toolbox Beading
The toolbox has rubber beading around the opening where it sits against the frame.
Plastic toolbox models used a slightly thicker rubber than metal toolbox models.
No Factory Toolbox Door Surround Rubber
This is an important point when restoring a Lambretta.
Italian-built Lambrettas did not leave the factory with a rubber surround fitted around the toolbox door.
The original rubber is the beading around the toolbox opening, sealing the toolbox to the frame.
The rubber door surround is something commonly seen on scooters that have been restored or imported, particularly scooters coming into the UK from Vietnam.
Oval Air Filter Gasket & Top Air Scoop Gasket
Both the oval air filter gasket and the round gasket that sits within the neck of the airbox should be black on all models.
Rectifier & Round Junction Box Cover
Both items were black.
HT Cable/Throttle Triangle Rubber
Black on all models. These hold both the HT lead and Throttle cable to the frame.
Series 3 HT Leg Grommet
The small barrel shaped grommet that sits on the frame leg were all black.
Petrol Tank Buffers
The petrol tank buffers were black rubber across the different Lambretta models.
Series 1 & 2 Stand Bump Rubber
The stand bump rubber on Series 1 and Series 2 models was black rubber.
Side Panel Buffers
The side panel buffers were black rubber.
Series 1 & 2 Tail Lamp Grommet
The tail lamp frame grommet on Series 1 and Series 2 models was black rubber.
Series 1 & 2 Internal Rear Mudguard Buffer
Series 1 and Series 2 models also used a black rubber buffer inside the rear mudguard.
Series 1 & 2 Body Rubbers & Gaskets
Italian-built Series 1 and Series 2 Lambrettas used grey rubber throughout the main bodywork.
TV175 Series 1 – Cream Grips
The TV175 Series 1 used cream handlebar grips rather than grey.
Series 1 & 2 Tail Lamp Gaskets
Italian-built Series 1 and Series 2 models used cream-coloured tail lamp gaskets, on both early and late models.
Spanish-built models used a silver/grey-coloured tail lamp gasket.
Although the Spanish gasket looks very similar to the Italian gasket, they don't fit Italian-made tail lamp housings.
Italian: Cream
Spanish: Silver/grey
Number Plate Holder Buffers
The Series 1 and Series 2 number plate holder used:
- 3 × cream-coloured rubber buffers
These hold the number plate away from the frame.
Series 1 & 2 Floor Channels
The 125cc Series 1 and Series 2 models used the criss-cross style front floor channel.
The LI150 and TV175 Series 2 models used aluminium floor channels with grey rubber inserts.
125cc Series 1 & 2: Criss-cross style front floor channel
LI150 & TV175 Series 2: Aluminium floor channels with grey rubber inserts
Series 3 LI, SX & TV – Grey Rubber
All Italian-built Series 3 LI, SX and TV models used grey rubber.
There is an important difference with the front mudguard gasket.
Series 3 scooters can have either:
- Standard-style mudguard
- "Special" style pointed mudguard
The gasket set differs depending on which style of mudguard is fitted.
Standard mudguard: Standard gasket set
Special-style pointed mudguard: Special-style gasket set
Lambretta GP – Black Rubber
Lambretta GP models used black rubbers throughout.
This is one of the major visual differences compared with the earlier Italian Series 3 models, which used grey rubber.
GP Tail Lamp Gasket
Interestingly, the GP came from the factory with a tail lamp gasket, whereas the DL did not.
GP: Tail lamp gasket fitted
DL: No factory tail lamp gasket
This is a useful distinction because DL and GP models are often treated as being identical when ordering parts.
Side Panel Rubber – Factory Fitment
Across all Lambretta models, the factory used a few small dabs of glue to hold the side panel rubber to the frame loop.
The rubber wasn't completely left to sit loose on the frame.
When restoring a scooter, it is therefore worth reproducing this detail rather than covering the entire rubber with adhesive.
Factory fitment: a few small dabs of glue to hold the side panel rubber to the frame loop.
Wiring Harness / Loom
The wiring harness is another area where a restoration can easily go wrong.
There are many replacement looms available today, but it is important to remember that Lambretta wiring changed throughout production.
When selecting a loom, consider:
- Model and series
- Production year
- Ignition system
- Battery or non-battery specification
- Lighting equipment
- Horn and switch arrangement
- Any electrical modifications
The Grey Lambretta Wiring Loom
One of the most common mistakes we see is the colour of the wiring loom on GP models.
Throughout the LI, SX, TV and GP range, the:
- Light switch sleeving
- Ignition switch sleeving
- Wiring loom
were grey.
This includes the GP.
GP – Grey Loom, Black Cables
The GP is particularly easy to get wrong.
Although the GP used black cables, the wiring loom itself remained grey.
GP cables = Black
GP wiring loom = Grey
The colour of the cables should therefore not be confused with the colour of the loom.
GP200 Electronic – The Exception
The Lambretta GP200 Electronic is the exception.
It did not use the grey wiring loom.
So the general rule is:
LI / SX / TV / GP: Grey wiring loom
GP200 Electronic: Exception
This is why it's important to select a loom based on the exact model and electrical specification, rather than simply ordering a generic GP loom.
Original Specification vs Modern Replacement
There is nothing wrong with improving a Lambretta.
Modern materials and components can offer genuine advantages, particularly on a scooter that is going to be ridden regularly.
Stainless-steel hardware can resist corrosion.
Modern rubber compounds can offer improved durability.
Modern wiring looms can provide practical improvements.
But there is a difference between:
Original specification — what was fitted to the scooter.
Modern replacement — a part that performs the same job but isn't necessarily historically correct.
Upgrade — a modern component deliberately chosen because it offers an advantage over the original.
All three have their place.
The important thing is knowing which one you're fitting.
Why These Small Details Matter
It can be tempting to think that a bolt is simply a bolt, or that a rubber buffer is simply a rubber buffer.
If it fits and holds the component in place, what difference does it make?
For a practical scooter that is being ridden regularly, perhaps very little.
But when restoring a Lambretta, these details can make a huge difference to the finished scooter.
A Series 1 with the wrong rear mudguard bolts, stainless-steel hardware, modern nyloc nuts and incorrect rubber can still be a beautifully restored scooter.
But it won't necessarily be an accurate restoration.
The same applies to Series 3 and GP models.
The correct part isn't always simply the part that fits.
Final Thoughts
When restoring a Lambretta, it is the small details that can make a big difference.
The finish of a bolt, the style of a fixing, the number of bolts used, the size of a fastener, the colour of a rubber buffer or even the colour of the wiring loom can all help determine whether a scooter accurately represents its original specification.
And perhaps the most important thing to remember is:
Just because a part fits doesn't mean it's correct.
Series 1, Series 2, Series 3, SX, TV, DL and GP models went through numerous production changes, and those changes need to be considered when carrying out a detailed restoration.
This guide is deliberately a basic reference rather than a complete factory specification. There are many more individual differences and production changes that could be covered, but hopefully this gives Lambretta owners a useful starting point when checking their own scooters.
